I’ve figured some things out about budgeting. I’m not awesome at it, but I’ve learned some stuff. I hope it’s useful. It might be more useful if your monetary position is kind of like mine (always made enough money to survive and save for retirement/etc), and less so if you have to figure out how to make ends meet each month.
gosh I tried to make this into a structured post but nope it’s just gonna be a series of thoughts.
1. there are tiers
of knowledge about your money.
- I don’t even know what’s happening with my money. My savings keeps going up, or maybe I’m broke, either way, I don’t know why.
- I know where my money goes. I spend x% of my budget on y, etc. I can’t really do much with that though.
- I know where my money goes, and I make changes based on that, and my savings reflects my changes.
I’ve spent the last ~10 years climbing from stage 1 to stage 2. I’m not yet at stage 3. In theory, stage 3 is “budgeting” while 2 is just “knowing where your money goes” but I’m gonna call this all “budgeting”, for simplicity.
It’s still worth it to be at stage 2! For example, I could decide this year that we can afford a nanny. If I were still in stage 1, I’d have to shrug and go “well, I don’t know, that’s expensive.”
2. this shit’s hard
look, I’ve been a Math Guy since I was a toddler, I’m pretty organized, I have enough time and resources to think about it, and it’s still hard. Like I said, only stage 2.
3. everything should be decision-oriented
You might say “why even make a budget?” I think the biggest reason is to be able to make decisions about your life. Decisions like:
- I want to take Job X which will pay me less money; can I do so?
- We’re having a baby; how much can we afford to spend on day care?
- I really want to (do X/buy X) but not hurt my savings; what can I cut out in order to do that?
All budgeting should help you make these decisions! Everything you do, every bit of data, should help you with that. Draft CABs1.
4. categorizing should be easy
If categorizing is hard, you won’t do it. Everything should be clear what category it fits in. If it’s not, perhaps you have too many categories (e.g. Mint comes with one for “Entertainment” and one for “Amusement”, wtf). Or perhaps your categories are unclear to you: what does “professional development” mean? If I buy a new desk chair, is that “professional development”? The answer doesn’t matter, but it matters that you have a clear answer. Tweak your categories until you always do.
5. you have to build your own categories
Mint and Ynab and your bank will helpfully auto-categorize your transactions. Chipotle is “restaurants.” United Airlines is “Air travel.” Then you’ll look at an end of year report and be like “uhh I spent a lot on Restaurants, maybe I should bring that down?” and you’ll have no idea how to do it. They won’t understand that, for you, Chipotle is where you buy lunch for your whole office on Tuesdays and get reimbursed, Home Depot isn’t home improvement but instead where you buy instruments for your washboard-and-jug band, and United is usually for visiting your family but sometimes for vacationing to Hawaii.
Because everything should be decision-oriented, and because categorizing should be easy, you will have to make your own categories.
Imagine you had a category for “lunch at work”, a category for “fun nights out with friends”, and a category for “restaurants/bars to support my other hobbies”. You might then see that “lunch at work” takes $5000/yr and think “it would be worth $2000 for me to pack a lunch sometimes”, or “fun nights out with friends” takes $5000 and think “why don’t I invite them to my place once a month and shave off $1000.”
6. start budgeting before you need it
Because you have to build your own categories, it takes a while before your budget is useful. If you are a Young Professional making bank, you probably don’t need a budget yet. But someday you will want to make some of the above decisions, and it’ll really help to at least know what your expenses are, and you’ll be glad you put in the 3-5 years to make good categories first.
sidebar: everyone’s examples are moralizing and stupid
A million dimwits online have written articles like “daily starbucks costs $5/day! if you do that every day, it costs $1500/year! if you instead saved that money, you could buy a house…”
This is dumb. It’s easy to think about, which is why people write it. (much harder to write: “visiting your family 5x/year probably costs about $4000, including all your costs; what if you only do it 4x?") But it’s not how things work (you can’t go from daily starbucks to no starbucks, easily), and if you tell people what they should spend money on, they’ll fight you, and this whole exercise will feel forced and useless.
100% of this exercise should be empowering, not shaming.
Anyway.
7. categorize in real time
I used to try to categorize all my transactions at the end of every year. This was frustrating. First of all, a bunch of transactions are to “Amazon” or “Venmo”, and good luck categorizing those. Second, I trusted Mint with auto-categorization when possible, it was wrong a lot, and I’m sure I missed some of them.
Now I do them in Ynab whenever I think to, every few days, and there’s maybe 5 or 20 transactions, each pretty easy to understand, and I can even do stuff like open up Amazon and see what exactly I bought there. This is nice.
Mint/Ynab/etc also generate a lot of noise because they just track “all transactions”. For example, if I pay my $500 credit card bill, it’ll record a “-$500” on my bank account and a “$500” on my credit card account. Obviously neither of these is meaningful, I just shuffled money around. So I tag these as “transfer” and then just ignore all “transfers” in any report. Easier to do if I don’t wait until the end of the year.
8. here are my categories
They’re not perfect by any means but they are better than the defaults!
- Fixed Housing Costs (these are very hard to change, unless we move)
- Mortgage/rent
- Property tax
- Utilities (incl Internet)
- Home Improvement (these vary wildly year to year. Needless to say, it was crazy when we moved into this house)
- Hardware and fixing things
- Decoration and furniture
- Well-being, normal (don’t skimp on this!)
- Doctor
- Gym
- Well-being, woo (this has almost always been worth it, so don’t skimp on it either! sometimes individual instances are not so useful, like acupuncture for me, but the ability to explore woo things has led to some really big improvements)
- Bodywork/massage
- Transformational work
- Therapy (haven’t figured out where to put this yet, into normal or woo.)
- Daily life necessary evils (probably not worth skimping on these. e.g. I’d cut a lot of things before groceries.)
- Groceries
- Pharmacy
- Mobile phone
- Family
- Travel to see family
- Gifts
- Personal Care (I don’t love this category but haven’t figured out what else to do with it. Probably should combine with well-being woo and therapy)
- Hair
- Other personal care
- Discretionary Fun Around Town (obviously, this is where “stuff we could cut more easily” begins)
- Coffee shops
- Alcohol and bars
- Restaurants
- Entertainment
- Discretionary Buying Stuff
- TV/subscriptions
- Clothing
- Electronics & Software (this isn’t a great category actually - what is the software for?)
- Hobbies
- Amazon/target uncategorized (sometimes you can’t get em all)
- Discretionary world-a-better-place
- Charity (e.g. Givewell)
- Supporting things I like (e.g. a substack writer I like or a Patreon)
- Vacation
- Air travel
- Hotel
- Other vacation
- Car (ideally this would be as low as possible, I just am sad all about it)
- Gas
- Parking
- Uber/lyft
- Service/parts
- Bike and public transport (yay, anything I use here is fine)
- Bike and bike parts
- Bike shares
- Public transportation
- Kids
- Nanny/day care
- Babysitter
- Baby supplies
- Kid activities (zoo, museum, Gymkhana, birthday party)
- Other (These are mostly so I can ignore them in all reports)
- Transfer
- Interest income
- Paycheck (money in doesn’t matter, I’m interested in money going out)
- Fees (not many of these! I think only my chase sapphire reserve fee, which is probably approximately worth it.)
“CAB (Cards that Affect the Board) from MtG is such a a useful concept. The idea: draft mostly cards that are creatures or stop their creatures. Newbies otherwise end up with lots of “cool” cards that draw cards, deal damage to ppl, set up some cool effect but don’t help them win. ↩︎
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